you decide to cut your own wood strips, the jigs on these pages will make
the milling cheap, accurate and fast. When I mill strips for my kayaks,
I often do large batches (~ 4-5000 ft or so) at a time. With the machines
already set up, in one afternoon you can make enough finished strips for
2 kayaks! I am not kidding.
The finger board principles in routing apply for ripping as well. Pressure on the plank is ideally applied just in front of the blade.
The photo shows a 71/4" thin-kerf rip blade. A combination blade is OK. Only four teeth need to project above the stock to minimize friction.
the long fence extension (a scrap piece of 1" MDF fiberboard). It assures
even parallel cuts so that you can get the most out of a plank. Ripping
strips of consistent thickness from a 15ft plank is very tough with a short
The table extension is an 8ft long piece of MDO plywood (better quality plywood with paper facing) mounted just below the level of the saw table. It is essential for ripping and routing long stock.
The most labor saving feature is the long finger board, 'friction-hinged' with by a clamp. It can be easily adjusted by hand yet it is held down with sufficient force to produce consistent pressure against the plank and fence. It is pulled tighter or looser by hand every 2 or 3 passes to maintain pressure. No need to readjust the clamp here!
Strips milled ~0.5mm or so over 1/4" will have thicker and stronger cove edges. No splintering will make life much easier during glue application.
When you run the glue bottle on a strip with thin cove edges, they often splinter and contaminate the glue. Achieving tight joints between the strips becomes more tedious as a result.
View from the other
direction. Note the chair supporting this
The ideal board of cedar
for making strips.
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Last page update: 27 June 2014